There are few things more annoying than filling a bathtub, climbing in, and realizing the water level is dropping because the stopper will not seal. Before you can fix it, you need to identify what type of stopper you have. There are five common types, and they fail in different ways.
Identify Your Stopper Type
Fixing Each Type
Lift-and-Turn Stopper
This is the most common type in newer installations. The stopper screws onto a threaded post in the drain crossbar.
Why it leaks: The rubber gasket on the bottom of the stopper has worn out, flattened, or hardened. It no longer creates a watertight seal against the drain opening.
The fix:
- Turn the stopper to the open position and unscrew it (counterclockwise) from the post. If there is a set screw on the knob, loosen it first with a small flathead or Allen key.
- Flip the stopper over and look at the rubber gasket on the bottom. If it is cracked, compressed, or missing, replace it.
- Take the old gasket to the hardware store or measure the diameter and buy a replacement. Universal tub stopper gaskets are available for a few dollars.
- Press the new gasket into place and screw the stopper back on.
Push-Pull Stopper
Works similarly to the lift-and-turn but is pulled straight up and pushed straight down.
Why it leaks: Same as above — a worn gasket. Push-pull stoppers can also develop a loose fit on the threaded post, which prevents them from pressing down firmly enough to seal.
The fix: Remove the stopper by pulling it up and unscrewing it from the post. Replace the gasket. If the stopper wobbles on the post, the threads may be stripped — replace the stopper, the post, or both. Universal push-pull stoppers are available for $5-15 at hardware stores.
Toe-Touch Stopper
The spring mechanism inside this stopper is its weak point.
Why it leaks: The internal spring wears out or the stopper does not push down far enough to seal. The rubber seal on the bottom also wears out over time.
The fix: Unscrew the stopper from the drain crossbar (push it to the open position, then unscrew counterclockwise). If the spring mechanism is broken, replace the entire stopper — $8-15 at a hardware store. If the spring works but the seal is bad, replace just the rubber gasket.
Trip-Lever Stopper
This type has no visible stopper in the drain — instead, a brass plunger inside the overflow pipe drops down to block the drain internally. The lever on the overflow plate moves the plunger up and down via a linkage rod.
Why it leaks: The linkage is misadjusted. If the linkage rod is too short, the plunger does not drop far enough to seal. The plunger can also corrode or accumulate hair and soap scum, preventing a good seal.
The fix:
- Remove the overflow plate (two screws). Pull the plate, lever, and attached linkage rod and plunger out through the overflow opening. This may require some wiggling.
- Clean the plunger thoroughly — remove hair, soap scum, and corrosion.
- The linkage rod has an adjustable threaded section. Lengthen the linkage by about 1/8 inch (turn the threaded rod to extend it). This drops the plunger lower and creates a tighter seal.
- Reinstall and test. You may need to adjust the length a few times to get it right.
If the plunger is badly corroded, replace the entire assembly. This is also a good time to pull out whatever hair has accumulated inside the overflow pipe, which may help if your drain is also slow.
Pop-Up Stopper
Similar to the trip-lever but with a visible stopper in the drain that pops up and down.
Why it leaks: The rocker arm linkage is misadjusted, the stopper's rubber seal is worn, or the stopper is not sitting flat in the drain because hair is wrapped around the rocker arm underneath it.
The fix: Lift the stopper straight out of the drain. On most pop-up stoppers, the stopper and rocker arm come out together. Clean everything — hair accumulation is almost always part of the problem. Check the rubber seal on the stopper and replace if worn. Adjust the linkage at the overflow plate if the stopper does not sit deep enough to seal.
The Quick Temporary Fix
If you need to take a bath right now and cannot fix the stopper tonight, a few temporary solutions work:
- A large flat suction cup placed over the drain creates a surprisingly good seal
- A wet washcloth pressed firmly into the drain opening blocks most of the water
- Plumber's putty pressed around the stopper (peel it off after the bath)
- A universal flat drain cover — silicone drain covers that seal with suction are available at most hardware stores for $3-5 and work well as permanent solutions on problem drains
If you are also dealing with other tub issues like pink grout around the tub, it might be worth tackling both while you have the tools and supplies out.
Related: Why Does My Drain Smell Like Rotten Eggs? · Shower Grout Turning Pink · How to Fix a Running Toilet
Written by Sarah Mitchell
Sarah writes about home improvement and practical DIY topics. She focuses on clear, step-by-step guides that anyone can follow.